Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Good Morning! The Coffee Tastes Funny, The Pastries Are Divine

Wake up and smell the chicory and beignets, y'all.

Mornings in New Orleans begin with a ritual. Things move a little more slowly in the Big Easy, and your coffee time finds you sitting in a 150-year-old coffee shop called Cafe du Monde. Things haven't changed much over the years and the waitress seems to have been working here for at least half those years.

Famous the world over, this place wants you to try its Cafe au Lait--half coffee, half lait (milk). Don't argue. Try it.

Because if you ask for it black...it tastes funny.

That's because the traditional New Orleans coffee is a mix of coffee beans and chicory, which is the dried root of the endive plant. Most people think it tastes bitter. It started out as a French tradition to make the coffee go a little further during tough times, and the taste has stuck around. It's an acquired taste, to be sure and most everyone in New Orleans seems to love it. Besides, it's one more thing that sets this city apart.

(But don't worry, the milk in the Cafe au Lait makes it a taste like a milkshake.)

Be sure to visit Cafe du Monde's website, which is full of history and very entertaining.

The real treat of the place is ordering a plate of beignets (pronounced ben-yays), which are amazing pastries---not quite a croissant, not quite a donut. They make me think of a less-greasy version of the fried dough or funnelcakes sold at the fairs around here. Cafe du Monde absolutely smothers them in powdered sugar.

You'll make a mess, but you won't care.

Go to the Original Cafe du Monde any time of the day or night. It is by the French Market, opposite Jackson Square and open 24 hours a day. It's one of the best sidewalk cafes in America. But to get your taste of beignets, they have a satellite shop in the Riverwalk shopping center opposite our hotel. It's open until six daily.

And if you're a creature of habit who can't live without your Starbucks grande double mocha chai latte, there's a good old Starbucks in the lobby of our Marriott hotel.

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